The Matterhorn is one of the most iconic peaks in the world, standing at an elevation of 4,478 meters on the border of Switzerland and Italy. Climbing the Matterhorn is a challenging and rewarding experience, requiring a high level of skill, experience, and physical fitness.
There are several routes to the top of the Matterhorn, each with its own level of difficulty and length. The most popular route is the Hörnli Ridge, which starts in the town of Zermatt and takes approximately two days to complete. This route is graded as a difficult climb, with several technical sections and exposed ledges.
The climb starts in the town of Zermatt, which is accessible by train from several major Swiss cities.
Zermatt (1608 m) -> (lift) -> Schwarzsee (2583 m) -> Hornli hut (3260 m) -> Matterhorn peak (4478 m)
From Zermatt you either hike to the Schwarzsee or take the lift.
(source: www.alpenvereinaktiv.com)
(source: www.alpenvereinaktiv.com)
In either case, you will arrive at the Schwarzsee. The difference is that you go up on your own, or with a lift. Those who choose the lift will climb up to the 3,266-meter-high Hornli hut, which serves as the base camp for the climb. The Hörnli Hut is located at an altitude of 3,260 meters and is equipped with basic amenities, including bunk beds, blankets, and a kitchen area.
The climb to the summit of the Matterhorn from the Hörnli Hut typically takes two days, with an overnight stay at the Solvay Hut, located at an altitude of 4,003 meters. The route takes climbers through a variety of terrain, including steep rock faces, exposed ridges, and snow and ice fields.
The climb begins with a relatively easy ascent through a rocky gully, known as the Hörnli Chimney. This section of the climb is protected by fixed ropes, and climbers must use their hands and feet to scramble up the rocky terrain. As climbers ascend higher, the route becomes more technical and exposed.
One of the most challenging sections of the climb is the Traverse of the Hornli Ridge. This section requires climbers to navigate a narrow, exposed ridge with steep drops on either side. Climbers must move carefully and deliberately, using fixed ropes and their hands and feet to negotiate the terrain.
As climbers approach the summit, they must navigate a steep snow and ice field known as the Summit Cone. This section of the climb is particularly challenging, as climbers must use crampons and ice axes to navigate the icy terrain. Once climbers reach the summit, they are rewarded with breathtaking views of the surrounding Alps.
In conclusion, climbing the Matterhorn is a unique and unforgettable experience that should be on every mountaineer's bucket list. The stunning views and sense of accomplishment make it one of the most rewarding climbs in the world. However, it's important to remember that this is a serious undertaking that requires a high level of skill, experience, and preparation. So, if you're up for the challenge, pack your gear, prepare yourself physically and mentally, and get ready for an adventure to the top of the Matterhorn!
